Maintenance
Here is a collection of ideas on what needs to be maintained throughout a model railyard. As with many other pages, please add your own tips, hints, and suggestions.
Maintenance
Regular maintenance on your engines, rolling stock, trackwork, switches, etc, will keep your operations running smoothly. Here is a collection of hints, tips, suggestions, etc to keep your trains off the sidelines.
Motive Power
Lubrication
Ensure lubricants are compatible before using them on plastic parts. Apply lubricants sparingly for best results. Excessive lubricant can migrate and cause other problems.
Follow manufacturer recommendations, which can be every 6 months or 100 hours of operation. It is advisable to have the instruction sheet for reference when disassembling or reassembling a locomotive.
Motor, Gears and Axles
Labelle offers a package containing their 102, 106 and 107 lubricants for HO, S, O and Large Scale modellers. The have another package with 108 replacing the 107 for N and Z scales.
Commutators
- Labelle 101
- Atlas Conducta Lube
Axles
Dry lubricants are preferred such as
- Labelle
- Hob-e-lube
- Kadee Greas-em
Service Requirements
Typical Problem Areas
- Dirty wheels
- Electrical pick-up issues
- Wheel gauge
- Gear lubrication
- Replacement of motors
- Traction tire replacement
Rolling Stock
Keeping your rolling stock operating smoothly is key to operations. For instance, maintaining truck width's prevents derailments.
Lubricating Trucks and Axles
To lower rolling resistance, you should keep your axle bearings lubricated. It's best to use a dry lubricant, such as Teflon, which can be found at all hardware stores. Dry lubricants don't attract dirt and helps to keep your railways cleaner. To keep trucks moving freely, you should also lubricate the truck kingpins.
Most truck sideframes are cast in Delrin, a self lubricating plastic. They can benefit from some lubrication, as well as reaming the journals to smooth the surface.
Although graphite lubricants work well, some argue that it's conductive properties may be harmful to motors if it finds a way into them.
When applying lubricant, less is more. It only takes a minuscule amount of lubricant to get the job done. A single ounce will maintain an entire fleet for a year.
Wheelsets
Prior to any car or locomotive being placed on the rails, the wheelsets should be checked with an NMRA Gauge. This ensures the gauge is correct. Another pre-service option is to ream out the journals. Often the wheels will spin much more freely after this process. One tool is called the "Truck Tuner".
Metal Wheelsets
There is much debate on the merits of metal wheels. Many will argue they are an additional cost. Others will point out they don't sweat residues which end up on the track. Fact is metal wheels not only stay cleaner, but they are much easier to clean. Conversion to metal wheelsets just eliminates another vector for dirt and residue to get onto the railhead. Replacing plastic wheelsets before placing a car on the layout, or during servicing, will keep the cost down, instead of conversion of the entire fleet at once.
Some sets include metal axles, which reduces friction in the journal boxes too.
They are a little noisier. But the prototype doesn't use plastic wheels...
Couplers
Before entering service the couplers should be checked for correct height, alignment, etc. Also check that the trip pin height is correct, otherwise it can snag points or uncoupling magnets. This can be done with an inexpensive gauge, such as the one offered by Kadee. Lubricants are also available tailored to coupler applications.
For reliability, all couplers should be the same. Mixing brands leads to problems. For the ultimate in reliability, the gold standard still is the metal Kadee couplers. The knock-offs are made of plastic, which flexes, and are often multi-piece designs. Which leads to erratic coupling and uncoupling.
Your hobby shop, local NMRA division or club can help you with choosing a coupler brand or installation.
Trackwork
Track should be cleaned regularly. After soldering any residues, such as flux, should be promptly removed, otherwise they will be spread around by the wheels.
For ease of maintenance, track should be nickel silver. Brass track corrodes quickly, and the oxide is an insulator. The oxide must be removed, usually with friction, with an ink eraser or similar abrasive tool. Do not use steel wool, as threads will be left behind to cause shorts, or get into the motor. (Steel is magnetic, motors have magnets to attract it.)
Nickel silver is easier to maintain, as the oxide is conductive. Oils and grease can be removed with a solvent and rag. A dry rag will also remove some oxide and any surface contaminants. When lubricating drivetrains, a little goes a long way, and the excess will end up on the track.
Vacuuming trackwork to remove dust and fibers is a good idea. They can become caught in bearings and gearboxes.
(As mentioned above, it is believed that metal wheels reduce contamination and keep the track cleaner longer.)
Difference between Brass and Nickel Silver Rail
The main difference is the colour. Brass is copper coloured, as it is an alloy of copper and zinc. Nickel silver is silver in colour, made of copper, zinc and nickel.
Oxidation is the real issue, with the oxides forming on brass forming an insulating layer that must be removed for reliable operation.
Another difference is conductivity. Despite the fact that the largest component in these alloys is copper (more than 50%), nickel silver has more resistance per foot than brass, with both rail cross sections being equal. Therefore, wiring is important to insure the track resistance does not become an issue.